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Messages - PSMKay

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1201
SMNetwork Archives / Re: Astrology for Stage Managers
« on: Feb 24, 2007, 10:46 pm »
Wow, ljh, you totally win the Golden Stopwatch for this one.  What a wonderful project!  I'm a Capricorn/Sagittarius cusp, which might explain how I got burned out of SMing by doing nonstop musicals...

1202
A new sub forum has been created in Students & Novices for discussion of undergraduate and graduate schooling.  This includes topics such as applying to schools, ACTF, U/RTA, Internships and Apprenticeships.

1203
The moderators periodically go through the stats, accessible at the bottom of the site.  The most active topics get "stickied" up at the top of the forums so that they're easier for everyone to find.  Some are the most active in terms of posts, and others are the most frequently read by visitors.

1204
SMNetwork Archives / Re: Thanksgiving
« on: Dec 04, 2006, 06:17 pm »
I think with December fully underway it's time for this thread to say goodnight!

*padlock*

1205
Tools of the Trade / Re: What goes inside a SM Kit?
« on: Nov 12, 2006, 12:15 am »
FYI, there is a line in your profile where you can list your kit contents if you so choose.  It only shows up when someone views your profile page, but can be useful for comparing and contrasting contents.

1206
SMNetwork Archives / Re: Free Stuff
« on: Nov 12, 2006, 12:13 am »
I also use vistaprint for my cards, and as I'm now in sales I go through a ton of them.  Actually had to order *more* of them, which has never happened before.  However, they are NASTY when it comes to spamming you after your order.  Caveat emptor.

1207
Hanging
There are two main types of electrics rigging you will encounter: C-Clamp and Unistrut (also known as channel pipe).  C-Clamp, while more versatile, is also not quite as secure.  Unistrut takes a bit longer to get used to and is more expensive to maintain, but makes for a quicker hang once you jump the learning curve and secures the instruments in a much stronger fashion.  Unistrut can also be mounted flush against the ceiling, and so it is often found in spaces with low clearance overhead.

(One of our readers had this to say about Unistrut:)

Quote
Hanging lights on unistrut is rarely, if ever, more secure than hanging lights with a c-clamp. Also, unistrut is a channel, not a pipe, and is NEVER called channel pipe. unless you want an electrician to look at you and say "huh?" Also, a better definition of the rigging would be pipe clamps, which covers a broad category including c-clamps, versus Unistrut, versus floor or wall or other types of mounting...
Plus, it is far easier, and therefore safer to install a safety cable on pipe.

Using C-Clamps:
  • You will need a wrench, preferably attached to your pants by a long-ish piece of tieline if you are climbing.  You will also need a ladder, and it helps to have nice, sturdy work boots. 
  • Using the light plot or the hang tapes, head for the site where the instrument is to be hung.  Depending on the designer, the amount of precision required in placing an instrument varies widely.
  • Loosen the bolt that runs diagonally through the C-Clamp so that the clamp will fit over the pipe.
  • Hook the clamp onto the pipe, making sure that the instrument will be right side up when it is aimed in the direction of the stage.  Finger tighten the bolt until it meets the pipe.
  • If there is a safety cable, clamp it around the pipe and through the yoke of the instrument.  (The yoke is the metal arc that connects the clamp to the instrument itself.)
  • Take your wrench and tighten the bolt as much as you can.  (NB: speaking as a female electrician to male electricians--don't over tighten the bolt, as you never know who's gonna have to take it down.)
  • If you are hanging an ellipsoidal or any similar instrument that has moving pieces that may obstruct the beam of the lamp, make sure to pull them all out as far as they can go.
Using Unistrut:
  • Unistrut pipes are recognizable by their rectangular shape and the approximately one-inch wide channel that runs down the center of them.  Lights are hung on this kind of pipe using a small, specialized nut attached to the yoke that replaces the c-clamp.  The nut is rectangular with sides that stick out from the shaft of the bolt, and it should have two thin grooves running along the side that is towards the instrument.  Many have a spring coming out of the top.
  • See steps 1 and 2 above.
  • Loosen the nut just enough so that it is still attached to the bolt.
  • Push the nut into the channel in the pipe so that the spring presses against the top of the pipe inside.
  • Reach in and twist the nut a quarter turn (NB: most turn more smoothly one way than the other) so that the grooves on the underside of the nut fit over the edges of the channel.   This is often not as easy as it sounds.
  • Finger tighten the bolt from underneath the yoke.  You may have to push up on the yoke while you do this, as the weight of the instrument on the bolt head often creates too much friction to allow the bolt to turn smoothly.
  • Connect the safety cable to the pipe if there is one.  If the pipe is flush up against the ceiling, this may not be possible.
  • Tighten the bolt the rest of the way using your wrench.
  • Pull out all shutters, open all irises, and clear any other moving parts out of the way of the instrument.
Focusing
Focusing determines the direction and shape of the light that is cast on the performance area.  Different types of instruments have different ways to focus them.   Focusing is done as part of the initial light hang, and should be double-checked when you replace lamps.


Focusing Ellipsoidals:
  • Bring gloves and your wrench, preferably attached to your pants with a long piece of tieline.  Wear light clothing--focusing is hot work.  Also bring up with you the color for the instrument in a color frame.
  • Turn on the instrument to be focused.  Check with whoever cabled and patched the plot to find out how to do this.
  • First, make sure all shutters and irises are pulled out/opened as far as they can go.   
  • Loosen the bolt that runs through the top of the yoke.  This bolt connects to either the c-clamp or the unistrut nut.  (Electricians often call this the "Oh sh*t" bolt, as that's what you say when it comes loose and the instrument falls down into the house.)  This will allow you to swivel the instrument from right to left.   If you cannot loosen this bolt, another option on c-clamp systems that will give you the same results is to loosen the tiny bolt that is found on top of the yoke.   (Continuing our lesson in electrician-speak, this is often called the "f*ck me" bolt, as this is what is said when the tiny thing breaks off under the wrench as it is wont to do.)  Don't loosen both bolts, or you'll have nothing but a wobbly instrument.  One will serve the purpose.
  • Now loosen the "banana bolt", which connects the yoke to the instrument itself.  This can get quite hot, so be sure to be wearing your gloves.  This bolt will allow you to move the instrument up and down.
  • See-saw the instrument about until the beam is focused on its target.  In an ideal setting, you will have someone standing on stage so you can aim the hotspot (brightest part) of the beam at them.
  • Once you've aimed correctly, tighten any bolts you loosened in steps 4 and 5.   (This is called locking down.)
  • The designer may ask you to "run the barrel."  In this case, find the bolt on the top of the instrument's snoot, and loosen it.  (This bolt is usually coated in plastic so it can be loosened by hand.)  This allows you to slide the lens apparatus back and forth within the instrument, thereby making the circle of light more crisp or fuzzy as necessary.  Retighten the snoot bolt once the designer is happy.
  • Now, bring in your shutters to fence the light off of any unwanted areas.  Due to the nature of lenses and reflectors, shutters control the opposite in the light beam from where they are actually located on the instrument.  Therefore, to cut light from the top of the beam, you would move in the bottom shutter.  Wacky.
    • If you are working with an ETC brand Source 4 instrument, you will also be able to turn the barrel 45 degrees if the shutters aren't closing off light to the designer's satisfaction.
  • Insert any patterns (gobos) into the pattern slot on top, and add an iris if required.
  • Drop the color frame with color into the guides at the front of the instrument.   Make sure the frame opens upwards, so the color doesn't fall out.
    • Low Budget Alternative: Gaff tape works well for short time periods if you don't have color frames.
    • Other lighting toys to drop in the color guides include top hats (look like coffee cans) and barn doors (which is what the little icon has in the menu bar to the left.)
  • Make sure you turn off the instrument when you're done. 
Focusing Fresnels:
  • Follow steps 1-7 above.
  • Loosen the wing nut on the bottom of the instrument.  This allows you to slide the lamp back and forth within the casing, allowing you to control the size of the beam.   Make your designer happy, and then retighten the wing nut.
  • Follow steps 11-12 above.
Focusing Par cans and Beam projectors:
  • Follow steps 1-7 from focusing ellipsoidals, above.
  • Point and shoot.  There's nothing more you can do.
  • Follow steps 11-12 from focusing ellipsoidals, above.

1208
Articles from the Old Site / First Aid
« on: Nov 04, 2006, 08:56 pm »
Contributed by J. Yeardly in the U.K., with some extra advice from Kay

  • A good link for the very basic is http://www.cprsim.com/
  • Always keep a first aid kit with some basic supplies on hand: ice pack, bandages of all sizes, first aid cream, splints, gauze, slings, tweezers, rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide, rubber tubing, rubber gloves, and if necessary, a mouth shield (for protecting yourself from communicable diseases when giving CPR.)
  • You should still get proper training.  You can check with the Red Cross for classes in your area.
  • Local EMS should help.
  • Keep a direct outside line free at all time to call for help if needed.
  • Give accurate directions and have someone meet the responders at the door to guide them.
  • Remember that CPR certifications expire after one year, and First Aid certifications after three years.
  • If you are certified in CPR, make sure you have someone call 911/local emergency number as you begin CPR on an adult.  It is highly likely if an adult is requiring CPR that they are actually suffering from cardiac arrest, and you will need the help as soon as possible.
  • However, if you are certified in CPR and working on a child, keep in mind that the likelihood of the child suffering acute heart failure is less likely than a more solvable crisis such as choking, so you should begin performing CPR and continue for two minutes before calling 911.
  • Talk to your supervisors about investing in an AED.  (Automatic Electronic Defibrillator.)  They require special classes, but they can really be used by anyone who can read.  The rate of survival and complete recovery from heart failure jumps from 10% to 90% when an AED is used as opposed to just CPR.
  • If a person has received a severe puncture wound and the cause of the puncture (glass, wood chip, saw blade, bullet, knife) has remained lodged in the wound, remember that removing the object will cause more harm and blood loss than leaving it in there and immobilizing the body part around the wound until professional help can be obtained.
  • If a body part is severed with a clean cut, keep the severed part in ice and bring it with you to the ER.  It may be able to be reattached if it is thusly preserved.

1209
Articles from the Old Site / How to kill feedback
« on: Nov 04, 2006, 08:55 pm »
Feedback: The result of a microphone receiving more sound from a speaker than from the source. i.e. someone is pointing a microphone into a monitor wedge, or something of that nature. The signal from the microphone is sent through the mixer, to the amplifiers and then boosted by a large amount. The amps then drive the speakers, which produce a louder version of the initial signal, and it just keeps going in loops.

One way to get rid of feedback, and the most effective, is to change the position of the mic relative to the speaker it's feeding back from. When this isn't possible, perhaps due to the performer's preference, then you must try to eliminate the feedback by adding an eq. This is hit and miss, just pull down one frequency at a time, and when you find the one that works, bring the two adjacent frequencies down a little, then boost the middle one until it just starts to feed back again, back it down a little, and you're done. (submitted by Paul, 4/1/01)

1210


First of all, they're called lamps, not light bulbs.  Electricians will look at you like you have two heads and no c-wrench if you call them light bulbs.  The only "light bulbs" are the ones you use in your household lighting fixtures (they're also called "A-lamps.")  If anyone wants to do the fresnel how-to, they are more than welcome to it.

Secondly, in any case other than a par can, when you are changing a lamp, you should not touch the glass area with your hands.  The oils on your skin will adhere to the glass, causing the filament as it burns to deposit particles unevenly.  Halogen lamps have their reputed long life because the halogen gas inside allows for even redistribution of these particles, making the filament last longer instead of weakening in one particular place as incandescent lamps are wont to do.  However, the particles in a halogen are attracted to any congregation of oils on the glass, so the effect is nulled by touching the lamp with your hands.

(Added by Lily:) The reason you don't touch lamps is because the oil on your fingers will cause quartz lamps to bubble/explode... this is not a good thing. Regular incandescent lamps will be ok. (BTW if you accidently touch a quartz lamp, you can remove the oil with rubbing alcohol and it will be ok.)

1211
Articles from the Old Site / The Coin Purse
« on: Nov 04, 2006, 08:54 pm »
Here's an in-depth analysis of the ubiquitous coin purse from my very good friend and colleague, Monica Cuoco.
 
--Heath Belden

I cannot remember the last show I did without a coin purse, or several coin
purses. I spent a long time loathing coin purses.  Now, coin purses have
come to be a pinnacle of my life as a stage manager. However, coin purses
bring a lot of responsibility with them.  Here are a few simple questions a
stage manager should have prepared for the predictable moment when "We?ll
need to add a coin purse here" echoes throughout the rehearsal hall:
  • What is it made of?
  • Will it reflect light on stage?
  • What color is it?
    • Can we get swatches to the scenic/lighting/costume designer?
    • Is it to be a period coin purse?
    • Do we have any dramaturgical notes on coin purses?
    • Will it be bought, built, or pulled?
      • By who? When?
    • Can we rehearse with it?
    • If we can't rehearse with it can we get a rehearsal coin purse?
    • It is important that the rehearsal coin purse is a near replica of the actual coin purse.
    • We will also need rehearsal coins, of course.
    • Will the coin purse be used in any promotional materials?
    • Do the coins need to be accessed?
      • How many?
      • What Currency?
      • If the coins do not need to be accessed what will we use as coins?
      • What kind of noise should the coin purse make?
      Is it:
      • Thrown?
      • Concealed?
      • Used as a weapon?
        • Do we need a fight choreographer?
      • Put in a pocket?
        • What size is the pocket?
        • Attached to anything?
          • How? With What? Is it removed?
          • Will it be needed during fittings?
          • Does it close?
            • Tie, snap, zip, or clasp?
          • If it ties does the actor have to untie it? Onstage? Quickly?
          • Who brings it in?
            • How? When? Where?
            • Does s/he give it to anyone?
              • Who? How? When? Where?
            • When does it exit?
              • With who? How? When? Where?
            • When do we see it again?
              • With who? How? When? Where?
            • Where is it preset?
            • Is it a pocket prop/hand prop/piece of furniture?
            • Do(es) the actor(s) handling it have
              • Allergies? Fears? Phobias? Special needs? Proper Training?
              • Are they right-handed or left-handed?
            • Is the actor Equity?
              • Is the coin purse equity approved?
              • Do we need to draw up a coin purse rider?
            • Can you email me the coin purse plot (you have one, I assume)?
            • IS THIS A PROP OR A COSTUME?
            I have come to love coin purses.  (In fact I am trying to highly encourage coin purse usage in every day life).  I have come to appreciate the time I spend ensuring that the perfect and most effective coin purse will appear on stage.  And I have realized - if I can come to love a thing this neurotic and particular then perhaps I have not missed my calling with fish farming or hemp bracelet making.  I think if we could all find our own proverbial coin purse we might enjoy our work a little more.
            Monica Cuoco, PSM


1212
It's the job every sound tech loves, coming into human contact with the human piece of feedback. It is often quite difficult to mic an actor properly. This article will hopefully show you how to / how not to mic up an actor.

So many times, I walk into a show and I see the local crew mic up actors and place the mic at the same level as the nose on your cheek so it looks like the biggest wart you have ever seen. This is fine, but it does look tacky.

I personally mic people just placing the head of the lapel mic next to the top of their ear so the cable begins behind their ear, you then follow their hairline until you get to the bare patch (which is hopefully covered by a collar) and then down their back. Tape the cable with 'skin tape' or the US equivalent (In Australia, we call it skin tape). Finally, attach the pack with a waist belt or something similar so the pack doesn't fall off and become a prop on stage right. Make sure that the excess cable is wound up and placed behind the pack, so if need be (if the actor jerks his/her head unexpectedly) the mic will follow. DON'T TAPE THE CABLE as if everything is tight, something will come off.

To mic up someone in their hair, use the same method up till the collar area. Once you get to the collar, run through the centre of the head and hold the mic and cable in place with hairpins. make sure the mic is placed under a section of hair or in a section where it will not stick out.

Keep in mind that:
A - Actors will leave expensive sound equipment on a chair or on the floor so make sure no actor with a mic leaves the stage at the end of the show until you take it

B - Make Up / Hairspray can be applied after Mic Up however make sure the mic head is covered by a small tissue or a piece of plastic, make up in the mic head is a bad bad thing

C - Change the batteries EVERY night, even if the show is run on a budget of
-$500, make sure new batteries are used, there's nothing worse that a mic going dead during a scene

D - Mic's dont come off during the show. No actor should remove their own mic, if mic changes are required, we specify three technicians back stage, one prompt side, one OP side and one in the green room to make sure changes are done properly

E - Frequencies... Make sure you maxamise the space you have available. If you have frequencies too close together, you could get cross-talk. We once did a show where we use 32 radio mics. It's okay but the school across the road was having their sports carnival with radio mics. Half way through "The Impossible Dream", we heard that John Smith had won the 100m race. Believe me the audience cheered and clapped.

Contributed by Tom Warnecke

1213
Articles from the Old Site / Fixing Broken Zippers
« on: Nov 04, 2006, 07:57 pm »
To fix a zipper you must first determine if it is just stuck, jammed, or broken. If you cannot tell, start with the idea that it is jammed, try fixing that, then move down the list if your zipper does not repair. Here is a list of symptoms and ways to fix the problem.



1. Zipper is stuck.   
 
If you have a metal zipper and it is stuck in one place, it might not be broken. Try rubbing the zipper with a candle or paraffin. These will loosen the metal slider, so the zipper will glide along the teeth once again.



2. Teeth and slider do not match up.


If the zipper and teeth are separated and you cannot get them back together, try opening the teeth at the base of the zipper. When you do this, drag the zipper/slider to the base of the garment. You should be able to pull it below the toothed edge, and back up again. Once you pull it back up, it should work properly again.



3. Slider is missing.


There isn't much you can do about this except replace the slider; this is the metal thing you pull to get your zipper to go up and down. All you need to do is loosen the stitching around the slider and remove it. Sew the new one in, and line it up with the teeth. It should work just like the old one.



4. Zipper is jammed.


If a candle or paraffin doesn't loosen the zipper, it's time to replace the zipper. You will need to buy a repair kit. This will include a new zipper and matching thread to sew it in. Select the style and color you want. All you have to do is cut the old zipper out, and sew the new one in.



5. Zipper is missing teeth.


If you have a few missing teeth in the zipper, it shouldn't jam the zipper. If you have several missing, it probably will jam the zipper. If so, it's time to replace the zipper. Just follow the directions in step 4.
Submitted by Katherine Schroeder

1214
After a 10 year absence from the world of theatre, I had been longing to return.  I had dropped out of college for what turned out to be 8 years, but returned 2 years ago to finally finish my studies, and I finally earned my theatre degree in 2002.  I want to direct plays (and always have) so badly, that I was willing to work in any capacity just to get my foot in the doors.  I started contacting theatres, and finally a local Community theatre responded to my offer and I was off and running as Assistant Stage Manager for their production of "Romeo and Juliet". 


I arrived 2 weeks before opening night.  I introduced myself to the SM and he seemed like a great guy at first.  He did seem slightly condescending at first, by explaining theatre basics like I was a 10 year old, but I just nooded my head and went about my duties.  Then one night I heard him yelling at the actors backstage:  "DO we have a PROBLEM here?".  I raised my eyebrows, but tried to let it roll off my back-his sudden rage was dumbfounding, though.


3 days later we were sched for a 10 hour tech rehearsal.  I showed up 20 minutes early, Krispy Kreme in hand for everyone, but no one was there.  I found the director and he said "Oh, didn't you get a call?  Rehearsal was cancelled".  I drove the 25 miles back home.


The next day was also a planned 10 hour day.  I walked in and the Artistic director again says "Didn't you get a call?"  This time they postponed the rehearsal to later that afternoon.  This time I was upset and decided to speak up.   The stage manager was in the prop room, and I walked over to speak to him and I said that in the future, I would appreciate phone calls for changes like this.  I said, "there is no excuse for me to have been overlooked twice in two days".


He just about exploded on me, screaming "Listen you, don't get up in my G** D*** face, because I can get up in yours just as G** D**** fast!  This conversation is over" and he stormed out.  I had no choice but to drive the 25 miles back home, only to drive BACK again 5 hours later.


That evening I arrived early and went to the SM to ask him politely for 5 minutes of his time.  I was sick to my stomach to face him, and felt like crap, but he refused.  The run through got underway, and he came over to my station backstage where I was seated by the prop table.  He leaned over and said "Since the actors aren't going to be allowed to have chairs backstage, you shouldn't be allowed to sit either."  I had to protest:  I have a bad hip, and it's unfeasable for me to have to stand over a low table for a three hour production every night.."  He suddenly began screaming at me with rage IN THE MIDDLE OF  A SCENE that I should "Do whatever the F*** I want to do... I don't five a F***".  I spent the night shaken, and humiliated.


The next evening I struggled over talking to the director about these repeating incidences.  Throughout the 5 or 6 days I've been there, the SM had on separate occasions accused me of trying to direct the play, sabataging the play, missing multiple cues, and other untruthfull things.  I'd only been there FIVE days, and haven't even SEEN the show from the house.  I approaching him one last time asking to speak as adults and he refused, leaning into my face to say "You need to get away from me because I have nothing to say to you."


I was miserable.


That night, I worked segregated from the SM (even though we were both backstage).  He physically pushed me aside twice as I was getting up to cue an actor (this theatre has no moniors for the actors to hear the progess of the show, so they must be cued when they are not in the backstage area).  Suddenly the director stopped the run through in order to re-rehearse a complicated scene.  I stayed BS, and the SM went to sit in the house.  Nearly an HOUR later the artistic director suddenly appeared in the wings and said to me; "you got your wish, Ken".  I asked him what he meant, and he said "You got your wish... The SM quit and you can consider yourself promoted."  My eyes nearly fell out of my head.  Literally THREE minutes later, we were running the rest of the show, with me in charge back stage.


At the end of the night-almost midnight by then, the Director had a little talk with me.  He handed me keys to the theatre and asked me what happened between the SM and myself.  I recounted his rage and behavior and the director told me that he'd heard stories about the SM's anger, but NEVER saw it (!!!!!)  UNTIL that night, when he unexpectedly stormed out, throwing his keys, but taking the script with ALL of the light/sound/prop and blocking cues with him.


It's been an 8 week run, and we are into the 7th week.  I'm running a perfect show BS (surprising even myself having been out of the game for so long, it feels like I NEVER left).  Not one day goes by without someone from the cast hugging me, and saying they love me, (hence the screen name "kenny loves you too").  I have been told several times that I have been the best stage manager they have ever worked with.  Granted, the show is small, and I don't have near the same duties as what a SM would do for a full sized production, but the encouragement has been OVERWHELMING to say the least.


Next up:  One more week to go on "Romeo and Juliet", then a one week break, then I start in pre-production for "Jeffrey"; this time as Assistant Director and Stage Manager, for a full sized production.  I'm still a little nervous, but I'm back baby! with a vengence!

Submitted by Ken

1215
I wasn't the stage manager for this show, but I had a front row seat on the rail as it all went down.  I was going to a large University in the mid-west, studying Opera Tech.  Every year they do the Nutcracker.  During the party scene, there's supposed to be a magic flash that ignites all the candles on the x-mas tree. Pretty simple set up, the tree has little electric lights, and the cue is just timed to the little flash pot set into the table at the base of the tree.  Unfortunately, the table is also the home for all the prop gifts handed out later in the scene, tin soldiers, dolls, etc.  Somehow one of the dolls made it into the 3 foot blast zone clearly marked on top of the table, and when the pyro went off, so did the doll.  I turn to my crew head and interrupt his conversation to say, "the set's on fire". He's squawking about it over headset, but before we can do anything about it, one of the dancers calmly pats out th flames with her hands.  This girl deserves a box of chocolates and a bunch of roses.  I'm always pleased when actors help out.  Best part was, my professor/supervisor was the one firing the pyro, so I got to make fun of him for weeks.  No matter how I screw up, I can always remember, at least I didn't set fire to the stage.

Submitted by Chase Potter

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